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BY COLIN SARGENT
Photos by Steve Rubican & Todd Caverly
In 1915, a Princeton grad from Philadelphia
named J. Kearsley Mitchell (1871-1949) built a summer cottage on Islesboro
for $50,000. The rubber
exec was riding the crest of a fortune he’d earned grooming his Philadelphia
Rubber Works for a future sale to B.F. Goodrich. He’d tapped into another
fortune by marrying the daughter of J.P. Morgan’s partner, Edward Stotesbury.
Their
wedding gifts, according to The Summer Cottages of Islesboro, by Earle
Shettleworth, Jr., included "a diamond necklace, a diamond tiara, and
a string of pearls valued at $500,000." Oh, and a check for $1
million.
Designed by Stewardson & Page of Philadelphia, the long white
structure took shape during the years Woodrow Wilson struggled to keep the
U.S. out of World War I and nestled into the evergreens as naturally as an
osprey might alight, looking across Dark Harbor toward Camden.
Seventy six years later, another Princeton grad from Philadelphia
purchased the place with his bride. His name is Parker Stevenson.
Stevenson, Kirstie Alley, and their two children spent close to 10
summers here.
This spring he’s selling the Mitchell Cottage – the former
Islesboro Inn – for $7.8 million.
"I remember the first time I saw it," Stevenson says. |
"It’s visible across the water from the ferry as you’re pulling in
-- those two giant twin gables over that big Doric Revival back porch and the
stone steps going down to the ocean. That’s unusual for Maine. Growing up, I’d
spent summers in shingle style homes in Northeast Harbor. To see that Doric
façade is stunning."
Stunning
is hardly an exaggeration. Upon disembarking from the Maine State Ferry
($20.25 round trip for 2 people with auto, and 10 of the prettiest minutes
you’ll ever spend in Maine), you must drive through swooping
peregrinations along narrow road and dark forest before you break into the
clearing to see the white Federal revival house with Doric columns, guest
house, tennis court, dock, and gardens. During the 1960s, this 4.5-acre
estate used to be known to Mainers as the Islesboro Inn.
Entering through the massive front door below a fan with sidelights,
visitors are greeted by an enormous central hall with a graceful staircase
curling to a masterpiece of a Georgian Palladian window.
The living room, to the left, runs the depth of the house. Everywhere
there are exquisite high Federal revival dentils, pilasters, pediments,
corbels, capitals, and crown moldings that would have done Salem’s
Samuel McIntire proud. The floors glow in original dark fir. |
Twelve fireplaces, 8 bedrooms, 7 baths, and a 9- bedroom/6-bath staff
wing evoke lost summers. The decoration is lavish cottage style with chintz and
deep cushions.
As
for the luckiest spot in the house, Stevenson says, "It’s everyone’s
favorite spot. You walk in that entry and see that whole line of [french]
doors that go to the back porch. The cottage faces Gickey Harbor, with
views of Birch, Spruce, Warren, and Seven Hundred Acre islands. There’s
Bald Mountain to the left, Ducktrap Mountain to the right. There’s Ferry
Landing. It’s that view that draws everybody, with the sun setting over
the Camden Hills. You don’t ‘make plans’ to rendezvous there, but
that’s where you all end up. It’s also where the windjammers come in
to anchor, right in front of us. I’ve seen six up there."
Inspired and in love in 1992, he and Kirstie Alley (who starred
together in the TV miniseries North and South II) jumped into redecorating
in bold yellows, florals, and peppermint stripes. At the time,
actor-director Stevenson (The Lifeguard, Hardy Boys Mysteries, Stroker
Ace, Falcon Crest, and Baywatch) had a regular role on Melrose Place. |
But all the while, his imagination was in Maine. Perhaps Stevenson (who majored
in art and archaeology at Princeton) more than anyone was totally engaged in the
restoration of the inn.
"My favorite part was converting it back to a private home. It was
as obvious as taking out the pay phone in the hallway. A bar service
blocked the entrance to the dining room, so we took it out. There were a
lot of systems to make the inn a commercial entreprise, and restoring it
to its original grace gave us a lot of pleasure."
Today, even winter visitors are amazed at the snugness of the Mitchell
Cottage. Not a scrap of sunshine goes to waste. "I’ve been here all
times of the year. Even in winter, when we arrive in the evening and it’s
dark, my kids feel cozy in every corner of the house, which really shocks
me, because I might have thought it daunting."
Stevenson, an avid tennis player, immediately found himself drawn to
"the tennis court, built right into the ledge against the water, with
a [Japanese garden-inspired] trellis and pagoda." Losing a ball here
is an existential experience as you watch it float away. "I’d never
had that experience before. Below the court, there’s a wooded path to
the docks where you look across the harbor and see this big lineup of 15
American flags flying to mark the piers of estates along the
coastline."
Stevenson wasn’t in Maine during 9/11, "but that image came back
to me, of Islesboro being the safest place in the world.
"There’s nothing like it. I looked along the San Juan Islands
and the coast of California, but I couldn’t find the palette of green,
granite, and dark blue that you can only find in Maine."
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Here, on Islesboro, was the aggressively quiet beauty where you can
nearly hear individual leaves fall -- "the still center of the
world."
"It was more like my recollections of Northeast Harbor in the
1950s. When I saw the inn, I thought, Wow, this is what I remember Maine
being like."
Even when he sells it, the memories "will hinge on my experiences
here with the kids. What I wanted was for my children to have the same
exposure to the water I had. [Stevenson rowed on the Varsity 8 at
Princeton.] My strongest memories of Northeast Harbor are not of tea
dances and regattas but going in a small Whaler with my dad and looking
for osprey. It was venturing outside the harbor in a rowboat for the first
time, thinking ‘Oh my God, what am I doing?’ I wanted them to run
along the shore and pick up shells, make friends with the lobstermen and
maybe go out with them, see stuff come up in the traps. Run through
blueberry fields. I experienced that all over again, standing next to
them."
For the new owners, the puckish Stevenson has left a few vestiges of
the Islesboro Inn, in spite of himself.
"I left the numbers up on the doors, painted them over. They were
funny. It’s not as if people say, ‘I’m staying in Number 9’ or
anything. But I left them on purpose because it kind of cracked me up and
guests enjoyed it."
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He appreciates and fosters a sense of the first owners, the Mitchells,
out here, too.
"It’s not as if they scratched their initials in a windowpane...
it’s more around the grounds.
"Sister Parish [a legendary Islesboro resident], who passed away a
few years ago, played with the Mitchell children as a young girl, and she
showed me where a log cabin used to be down on the water. It burned down
in the 1950s, but the footing is still there.
"There’s a lot of ‘still there’ about the Mitchells. Sister
Parish showed me where their formal gardens were once outlined in cedar
bushes. Now they’re tall cedar trees, 80 feet high. I’ve planted
wildflowers in places on my own, but there’s something grander
here" -- a rough but eloquent sense of continuity. "The remnants
of the formal gardens all over the property are still here if you know
what to look for."
Sister Parish encouraged Stevenson and Alley to restore the cottage’s
tri-cameral sun porch in particular. It’s the most extraordinary nook in
the house, with interior basketweave lattice, vaulted cove ceilings, and a
central green marble fireplace.
"The inn had used it for wood storage." It had fallen into
total disrepair and begged for fresh drywall. But Sister Parish remembered
it as ‘the tea room,’ Stevenson says. "The Mitchells gave teas
there, and she insisted it be preserved."
For Stevenson, Maine has always been a family thing.
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"When I first started looking I hadn’t seen the inn, but I’d
never missed a summer in Northeast Harbor. It was part of a tradition
enjoyed by my parents and grandparents. We cruised Blue Hill, Long Island,
Penobscot Bay. My uncle lived in Rockland and before that had a boatyard
just a little farther south, called Parker Boats.
"My grandmother had spent time in
Islesboro. My father’s side
had spent time in Vinalhaven. I only realized later there was a
Philadelphia connection with this house. The Philadelphians were in Mt.
Desert, for the most part."
High-profile visitors from California react just like everyone else
upon entering the cottage, he says.
"Everyone’s reaction is ‘Oh my God.’ There’s that intake
of breath. Mainers on the island have a personal connection to the
property because many of them got married here."
Is the house being sold furnished? It would be a shame to think of the
needlework carpet in the yellow master bedroom being anywhere else.
"I will be open to leaving a number of things if it make the
difference between someone missing a summer redecorating or coming in
after three weeks."
Even so, Stevenson will always find his way back to Maine with his
children, even if for a short time. "We were here two and one-half
days last year. My work [including appearances in The District and Judging
Amy], and our life, is really in Los Angeles now that my kids are further
along in school and their routines are set."
Still, you might spy him this summer at his favorite restaurant in
Camden, "Cappy’s, because I can take my boat, Bellatrix, there. It’s
a 44-foot Bunker & Ellis with a dark hull, made in
Mt. Desert in the 1940s."
Directions to the cottage, says Stevenson, are like a magic
incantation, like life. "You just keep turning right, turning right,
turning right."
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©2002 Portland
Magazine
Colin Sargent, Editor & Publisher
editor@portlandmonthly.com
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